Monday, 4 June 2012

The Good, The Bad and the Un-Intimidated


Day Four

4 June 2012

Weather: cloud, rain later. 12-21

Cat count: 1

T-shirt count: 0

Oh, it’s so nice to sleep in! I woke just after seven and opened the curtains to see 315 somewhat perturbed felines. I let them in and they romped down the corridor to the spa.

I don’t expect to see them again till tomorrow.

Right after I get the bill.

I went down to breakfast. It had the usual fare but the scrambled eggs have to be the best I’ve had at a hotel. The croissants were warm and delicious. Not the heavy, flakey type either.

At 9, we followed Gasper out to the bus for the Alpine Jewels and Lake Bohinj optional. This is an optional that you don’t want to do on a rainy, foggy day. You simply wouldn’t see anything. We lucked out. Gasper had checked the forecast to find it would be dry for the morning, so he decided to leave the caves for the afternoon.

After all, you don’t mind visiting underground caves when it’s pouring rain outside.

Oh….wait.

So, we head off for the Julian Alps. They were named for an ancient ruler in the area.

Gasper puts on some polka music and the Australians up front want some entertainment to go with it. They call on Gasper to dance for us.

He declines. And blushes just a slight rose.

He says that he doesn’t dance but would be willing to take off his clothes if it will make us happy.

(I think he was trying to say that he’d give us the shirt off his back).

That didn’t dissuade the Australians. They wanted to see the hidden treasure.

Okay. Now he’s a mauve rose.

One says it would be fine. The windows are tinted.

Now a deep rose.

Another asks if he would do it if we collected all the cameras.

Beet red. LOL

I think he’s going to exile the Aussies to the back of the bus tomorrow.

I think I’ll go to the back of the bus too. The Aussie are always the most fun on tour.

After Gasper got everyone to quiet down and take a deep breath, he told us that Triglav National Park is the only NP in Slovenia and was one of the first in Europe. It’s 880 sq km and occupies 3% of Slovenia. It’s not a long drive to Lake Bohinj. The Lake is 4 km long and sitting between two ranges. We take a cable car up to Mount Vogol to some great views of the Julian Alps and the lake. The sun was able to peek through a few times to brighten up the scenery. 



Gasper brought us around to a viewing point where there was a sign of a stick figure falling off a cliff. He made sure to tell us the sign was real. That it wasn’t a joke.

Oh yeah. But we all still had to walk to the edge and look down. 



Then he took us to the lodge where he arranged for a shot of schnapps for everyone.

After a shot, the falling stick figure sign just might seem like a joke.

As he got the schnapps, he said there was a special schnapps that the woman at the lodge had made especially for the women in the group. It was called Wild Boar Blood.

I opted for the regular, non-red, schnapps.  As a non-drinker, it hit me pretty good.

So, I stayed away from yellow sign with stick figure falling off cliff.

We took pictures...


...and then made our way back to the cable car.

Do cable cars spin?

Oh…wait.

I really need to lay off the schnapps.

We went down and drove to the community at the head of the lake. Gasper showed us a statue of three men who had helped open the area up. (Didn’t catch the whole story). Then he showed us the church, but it was closed (as he expected) and we got 20 minutes to look around. There was a fly fisherman just below the bridge where the Lake empties into a river. 


We crossed the bridge and looked down to see hundreds of trout just swimming around at the base of the bridge.


We all went back to the other side of the bridge and yelled out to the guy that the fish were on the other side.

Don’t think he understood.

Nearby there were some outdoor bars including one that had a set of steps going down into what looked like a river overflow canal. There were tables attached to the side of the walls. 



We asked Gasper and he said that it was for the bar. I asked what about the water. He said no problem. 
They only get a lot of water once or twice a year.

Yup. Buy your beer, take your chances. Will there or won’t there be a flash flood.

They really should have a sign.

I headed for a small store to get a Coke, but didn’t get it. The woman just didn’t seem interested in selling me anything. I left it at the cash as the time was running out.

We left the community and headed to the town to see the hay stacks without hay. The most entertaining part was watching Boris, our driver, navigate the bus down extremely narrow streets without scratching Trafalgar’s brand new bus. It earned him a round of applause.

We got back to the hotel by 1 pm and had an hour to recover before proceeding to the Postojna Caves optional. There’s a small mall right across the street from the hotel, so I ran over to grab a donair and went back to the room to deflate.

And recheck the website to make sure this was an At-Leisure tour.

LOL

No sign of the cats (which is never a good thing) and I go down to the bus. Gasper needed 15 to do this optional. He got 18. So, 8 people stayed behind to walk the trails and enjoy Lake Bled.

As we hit the highway, it started to pour out of the heavens!

Yup. Really good afternoon to pick to do an optional in an underground cave.

Oh…wait. Again.

As with the other optionals, Gasper doesn’t enforce the rotation rules. This is the first time I’ve come across this, but I prefer the enforced rotation. The same people are taking the front seats and while I don’t care (I prefer the second seat when I’m that far forward), I know there are others who’d like a chance.

The front seat in this bus has an added disadvantage besides the lack of leg room. There’s a decal on the outside of the bus that cuts right across the window of the front seat. It’s not there for the second seat.

Heh.

As we drive, Gasper tells us that the Postojna Caves are 21 km long but we will only see about a quarter of it – part of it on a little train and part of it we will walk (about 1.7 km). He says photos are fine without a flash.

The caves have a unique inhabitant. It’s called the human fish, but in reality, it’s a salamander that lives in the dark so its skin has no pigment and looks a lot like human skin. It also doesn’t reach maturity until 16-18 years of age and can live to over 100 years.

It can also go a year without food.

Quite the pet. Feed it once and you don’t have to lift a finger for it for a year.

The salamanders are endangered and it’s believed that scientists are to blame as they are the ones removing the salamanders from the caves.

Gasper also notes that we are near Lipica where the Lipizzaner stallions are bred. So, they’re bred in Slovenia, housed in Austria, trained by the Spanish and Gene Hackman thinks they’re from Portugal.

We arrive in the pouring rain at the caves and we’re early – as planned. It’s about an hour’s drive. That gives us time to shop, get a snack and that. I saw a great t-shirt but I wasn’t willing to wear green – the only colour it’s available in.

I do have my limits.

Gasper shows us to the entrance for the 4 pm train into the caves. There must be 200 other people or more. We go through the gate while Gasper waves goodbye to us.

Is there something he knows that we don’t? Like what happens in the caves when it rains heavily?

We walk down to the trains. There are two on either side of a platform. The train is just a platform with three benches per “car.” No sides. Just the floor and benches.They’re really cool. 


As we drive through the caves, I start recording snippets. We’re going too fast for a snapshot.

We must have went five kilometres. Felt like it. Took like 10 minutes. We got off at the end and are directed to a sign for English speakers. About 50 or so people gather for the English guide and he says hello then tells us that no electronic devices are permitted. No ipods. No computers. No cameras. No camcorders.

Say what?

He flicks his flashlight around and tells everyone to turn off their camera and put it in their bags. Then he starts his spiel, but the man next to me didn’t hear and had his camcorder up. The flashlight lands on him and the guide says “turn it off.”

Yup. That’s how they enforce that rule.

They put the light on you and shame you into compliance.

A few of us from the tour will not be so easily intimidated. 



The guide gives his introduction, telling us how it takes 100 years for the stalactite to form a single centimetre. I didn’t hear much more. There was a kid hanging around me who seemed more interested in keeping himself entertained vocally.

Hearing aids. Don’t leave home without them.

The guide starts to lead us around a flat and somewhat slippery concrete path. That’s why Gasper insisted on good walking shoes for this optional. With it raining outside, the paths are getting wet from the drips.

The un-intimidated group hang back and bring up the rear of the group as we…<cough><cough>…take some pictures. 



I think they prohibit photos because if they allowed cameras, too many people would take pictures with their flash no matter how many times you tell them to turn them off. With the salamanders in the caves, I think they want to prevent the flashes….and know those of us who know how to turn off the flash are the ones who will sneak a photo here and there.

At the risk of the Light of Shame.

It certainly wasn’t a way to sell more postcards or books. I never saw any at the cave’s gift shop.

Or maybe they were sold out.

It was the last tour of the day, after all.

We walk for almost two kilometres along fairly flat ground. The cave is amazing. Even if you’ve been to a cave before, I doubt you have been to one this large.

It is huge.

And like the Energizer Bunny, it just keeps on going and going.

This optional was well well worth it. I’d take this optional over the Alpine Jewels and Lake Bohinj hands down.

Near the end, the guide points up to a section of the roof that has obviously collapsed leaving tons and tons of rock below. He said we have to be careful since it just fell the other day.

Wide eyes greet that news.

Then he starts laughing and says no, it likely fell thousands of years ago.

Everyone is a comedian.

Now I don’t feel so bad for taking some pictures. LOL

We board the train and ride what feels like another 5 km back to the entrance. As we walk up the ramp from the train, I see three employees accosting people.

I panic! OMG, they’re checking the photos on our cameras!!

LOL.

Turns out that the Japanese can’t take the guided tour so they are given headsets with an audio tour and they were collecting them.

I walk by whistling.

Gasper…

And I’ll have you know that every time I type his name, I start typing Casper.

…meets us outside and directs us to the bus while he waits for the couple on the second train. I dropped into one of the self service spots on the way to get a sandwich for dinner and like the woman at the other shop, I felt like I was imposing myself on this guy. I mean, I got the heavy sigh and everything. I took the sandwich and an apple strudel (that got two sighs) and walked down through pouring rain to the bus.
Well, we didn’t get swept up in a flash flood, so I imagine we got the better deal this afternoon. I imagine the other eight ended up indoors.

Cause they certainly couldn’t have used the spa. It was otherwise occupied with 315 demanding guests.

We got back to the hotel at 7:30 and the night was ours.

And you know what I’m doing.

<tap><tap><tap>



Vacationing like Tito


Day Three

3 June 2012

Weather: Sunny, low 20s

Cat count: 0

T-shirt count: 1

You know the jetlag has been conquered when you can wake up just before the alarm two days in a row. 

The cats were nowhere to be seen but there was a note about scrambled eggs and the Prater hunting grounds.

They know were leaving Vienna today.

I left breakfast until the last minute as I figured it would take the cook a while to replace the eggs. I arrived just in time. The breakfast is strangely sparse but it doesn’t look like it. Lots of cereal, breads (no croissants), fruit and spreads etc. But all I could find that I like is the eggs, toast and bacon. The tea is good.

As we boarded the bus, there was a rotation list with everyone given seats in the front but everyone was given the option to go back if they wanted.

They did. The entire bus is pretty well taken up with the odd empty seats being used for bags.

And cats.

The rest are in the overhead with swishing tales obscuring our views.

I’ll have to have a chat with them.

As we left Vienna, Gasper started to go through the itinerary. I didn’t hear it all as the people behind me were complaining that he wouldn’t shut up – ten minutes after he started. Not sure what they were expecting. Total silence? They made loud comments about anything they didn’t like and since my hearing isn’t best, their complaints over rode what he was saying.

Including the part about where the washrooms were at our rest stop. (I later told him I was half deaf and couldn’t hear him over the couple behind me. Luckily, I can move.)

After our rest stop, Gasper started a game where he’d get us to guess who he was. The hardest one was that he was a food. We guessed everything to no luck – water, milk, juice etc. I mentioned oil and he said no but said that there was pumpkin oil available in Graz. The Australians said they couldn’t take the oil back with them. He knew that and said North Americans could.

Then he noted that last year he had smuggled a big sausage into Canada.

I have no doubt you could hear the laughter in Adelaide and Vancouver.

Don’t think Gasper knew what we were laughing at. His English is very good but as with so many second languages, you don’t always get the nuances.

All in fun, Gasper. Believe me, I know I’ve likely done the same thing speaking French.

We arrived in Graz just after 11 am and drove towards the city centre. Gasper said it’s usually very quiet there on Sunday with no stores open.

Nope. Today is a festival day of some sort and everyone who lives in Graz is at the city centre. There are bouncy castles (that absorbed the cats for the whole 2 hour stop), concession stands and a lot of food places open.



Not a single souvenir shop was open. I couldn’t get as much as a fridge magnet.

But I did come away with some nice photos. We must have walked for a half hour to get to the centre and then a little farther to get to the river for some nice photos of the river and of the clock tower above.


It’s original apparently, having escaped bombardment. Gasper said something about asking an enemy to leave it while the rest of the town burned. Didn’t catch it all.

I should have brought my hearing aids.

At noon, Gasper let us loose on the locals. We could walk up to the clock tower or take an elevator.



It’s like 30 degrees out. Guess which one I did?

The hill is full of tunnels, dug during the war. One tunnel leads to an elevator and it was very cold.

I could have sat there for the whole hour in the natural air conditioning.



The elevator usually costs .80 Euro but today was free. There was no line and the elevator was quick – up through a vertical tunnel and you could see the carved walls as you ascended. The view from above is beautiful and worth the detour. It didn’t take long.



If you walked, that would be another story.

If I was in shorts, I would have walked down. Instead, I took the elevator and started a search for an ice cream. I found a nice shop with ice cream and gelato. I had to pay for the cup first then they gave me the chance to take a slice of any flavour. I wasn’t sure what all the flavours were but chocolate and vanilla were a given. I also tried nougat.

The ice cream was superb. Very rich and full of flavour. A small cup cost 4 Euro. About $6.



Exactly what a good ice cream should cost.

I met up with others from the tour and Casper had a bit of a job finding us all. I had to pay for the busted bouncy castles thanks to 315 clawed cats then I herded them back to the bus.

Good thing they have nine lives.

We continued on through some Switzerland like countryside with the gorgeous houses on the hillsides. 


Gasper went around with the optional list and I spoke to him about Montenegro. Turns out we will have close to a day and a half in the Old Town as it is and he promised me enough free time to see the War Photo display. So, I signed up for Montenegro, but he seems flexible if something changes.

He also tells us that Dubrovnik is separated from the rest of Croatia by a short section of Bosnia (its access to the sea) and that we would be crossing the small section on the way to and from Dubrovnik, but on the way back, we’ll actually stop. I’ll step inside the country for the first time in 18 years.

This time, I’ll get a fridge magnet.

We crossed into Slovenia through the empty border crossing and went through the longest tunnel in this part of Europe. Lake Bled was only about 20 minutes from there. All eyes were on the sky as the weather seemed to go from clear skies to threatening skies in the space of that tunnel.

Gasper gave us his Slovenia talk and language lesson. The words look an awful lot like Bosnian. And Croatian. And Serbian. Probably a lot like Montenegran too.

He said Slovenia has 2 million people and is one of the most forested nations in Europe by percentage (almost 60% is forested). The country declared independence from Yugoslavia in 1991 and Yugoslavia responded by attacking the border crossings - not wanting to lose the tax dollars or something to that effect. I think it had more to do with Germany being far too close to Slovenia (with which Slovenia has ties) and Belgrade being so far away. Serbian was more concerned about Croatia as it had a large Serb population. The Yugoslav incursion into Slovenia lasted only 10 days and they’ve been at peace ever since.

He said it’s the 9th smallest country in Europe, and he goes on to say nice things come in small packages.

Oh, did I mention he is Slovenian.

We pulled into the hotel which has greenery planted all along the balconies and it’s growing over the sides so much that the rooms below have vines hanging over their balcony. The whole wall is green.

It’s 4:30 which gave us a half hour to get ready for the evening optional. Gasper had said he’d only do the Postojna Caves if he had a minimum of 15 people. From the way he said it, he didn’t expect to get that many, but when he asked, he got more than 15.

315 times 4 paws, actually.

Some of us love caves and we stacked the deck.

Since enough people (and felines) wanted to see the caves, he compromised on the Bled Castle optional and arranged it for our arrival which gave us precious little free time, but with this optional done, we can do the other two tomorrow!

Love it when a plan comes together.

So, we scramble up to our rooms. Mine is small. One bed, a chair and CRT TV, but the TV has the Discovery Channel and National Geographic!!! There’s a safe (that I managed to screw up but they reset it for me), a hair dryer, shampoo stuff, mini bar. Didn’t notice an iron yet. There’s no bath. Just a shower.



And the internet is free in our rooms.

Sweet!

Despite Gasper telling us that he was trying to arrange Lake view rooms, we all face the town.

Don’t think I’ll be in the room long enough to notice.

I pass my luggage coming up as I head down to get the bus. Most of the tour is doing this optional and we joke that if this is an at-leisure tour then the lively would kill us. LOL

We drive a short distance to the Pletna boats (they’re like long gondolas). I’m in the front look back at the rower…and take a couple of discreet pictures. 








He can row my boat any day.

It takes about 20 minutes to cross the pristine Lake Bled to the only island on the lake. (I thought I heard Gaspar say it was the only island in Slovenia). We dock at the bottom and look up.

Way up.

99 steps.

Now, if there were a beer on each step, we’d have a song!



We all trudge up the steps to see the Church of St. Mary’s at the top. A bell is ringing and ringing and ringing. Turns out it’s a wishing bell and every tourist wants to take a try.

It must drive the locals crazy. LOL



I took a glance inside. I didn’t hear the history of the bell. Too noisy in the church. I went for a walk around the church to take pictures then walked halfway down the steps and sat there taking pics of the boats on the lake and Tito’s former summer place. 



Beautiful.

We took the boat back to shore and got back on the bus. By now, our stomachs are rumbling and if the cats have emptied the buffet by the time I get back, we’re gonna have a problem.

And they`ll be down to 8 lives.

First, we head to the Bled Castle which is perched on a cliff overlooking the lake. What a spot for a castle. We drive around the lake and see that the entire lake has a walking trail. What a way to preserve a spot. Apparently, no more building is permitted around the lake. At the end of the lake is a rowing area that was set up for a major competition. You can see the lines of buoys extending out into the lake.



By now, I’m so wiped, I’m not taking a lot of notes about the castle, but I knew the internet would be full. 

Here’s a link to the local site that explains the history of this amazing spot:


We drive up a very steep road and park below the castle. Then we see the ramp up…and up….and up to the castle.

We all want the 99 steps now.

This is not a spot for slippery shoes. Good footwear is essential.



The views from the castle are beautiful. Unfortunately, the sun just hid behind the bit of cloud surrounding the lake. Yup. There’s a huge blue area directly above us and a bank of cloud surrounds the blue to the horizon. 

We get a shower and I’m hoping a rainbow would show up over the town. Wouldn’t that be sweet?

But no go. 



We invade the small souvenir shop and I pick up the shot glass for my sister in law and find a cute t-shirt. It’s packed in a little lycra bag with the same design on it. I got it as much for the bag as for the t-shirt.

And fridge magnets galore. I covered everything we’re doing in Slovenia so that I can be sure I got them all and don’t have to look tomorrow.



We get a half hour to walk around and take pictures then head back to the bus. Good thing the showers let up or some of us would have been slip-sliding down the rocks to the bottom.

I sense another song.

We drive back to the hotel for 7:30 and Gasper tells us that the buffet is at 8 and to meet him in the reception area.

So, at 8 pm, he has 26 very very hungry people surrounding him and he gave us the details for tomorrow. It was that kind of situation that whenever he asked if someone had a question, you were quietly saying “no!”

Turns out about 24 of the 26 were thinking that.

He finally takes mercy on the drooling masses and lets us loose on the buffet. I didn’t even pick a seat. I just picked a plate.

Gasper said this hotel was well known for its food and I can believe it. It was delicious. Steak, turkey, potatoes, vegetables and the best meatballs I’ve ever had. We get a bottle of water between two people or you can order your own drink. The nice part about a buffet is that you can eat and run and most of us are done in an hour.

An early night and a late wake-up. A tour traveller’s best friend.

Turns out the green balconies are the cat’s best friend. They`re out swinging on the vines.

I locked my balcony door and went to bed.