Monday, 4 June 2012

Vacationing like Tito


Day Three

3 June 2012

Weather: Sunny, low 20s

Cat count: 0

T-shirt count: 1

You know the jetlag has been conquered when you can wake up just before the alarm two days in a row. 

The cats were nowhere to be seen but there was a note about scrambled eggs and the Prater hunting grounds.

They know were leaving Vienna today.

I left breakfast until the last minute as I figured it would take the cook a while to replace the eggs. I arrived just in time. The breakfast is strangely sparse but it doesn’t look like it. Lots of cereal, breads (no croissants), fruit and spreads etc. But all I could find that I like is the eggs, toast and bacon. The tea is good.

As we boarded the bus, there was a rotation list with everyone given seats in the front but everyone was given the option to go back if they wanted.

They did. The entire bus is pretty well taken up with the odd empty seats being used for bags.

And cats.

The rest are in the overhead with swishing tales obscuring our views.

I’ll have to have a chat with them.

As we left Vienna, Gasper started to go through the itinerary. I didn’t hear it all as the people behind me were complaining that he wouldn’t shut up – ten minutes after he started. Not sure what they were expecting. Total silence? They made loud comments about anything they didn’t like and since my hearing isn’t best, their complaints over rode what he was saying.

Including the part about where the washrooms were at our rest stop. (I later told him I was half deaf and couldn’t hear him over the couple behind me. Luckily, I can move.)

After our rest stop, Gasper started a game where he’d get us to guess who he was. The hardest one was that he was a food. We guessed everything to no luck – water, milk, juice etc. I mentioned oil and he said no but said that there was pumpkin oil available in Graz. The Australians said they couldn’t take the oil back with them. He knew that and said North Americans could.

Then he noted that last year he had smuggled a big sausage into Canada.

I have no doubt you could hear the laughter in Adelaide and Vancouver.

Don’t think Gasper knew what we were laughing at. His English is very good but as with so many second languages, you don’t always get the nuances.

All in fun, Gasper. Believe me, I know I’ve likely done the same thing speaking French.

We arrived in Graz just after 11 am and drove towards the city centre. Gasper said it’s usually very quiet there on Sunday with no stores open.

Nope. Today is a festival day of some sort and everyone who lives in Graz is at the city centre. There are bouncy castles (that absorbed the cats for the whole 2 hour stop), concession stands and a lot of food places open.



Not a single souvenir shop was open. I couldn’t get as much as a fridge magnet.

But I did come away with some nice photos. We must have walked for a half hour to get to the centre and then a little farther to get to the river for some nice photos of the river and of the clock tower above.


It’s original apparently, having escaped bombardment. Gasper said something about asking an enemy to leave it while the rest of the town burned. Didn’t catch it all.

I should have brought my hearing aids.

At noon, Gasper let us loose on the locals. We could walk up to the clock tower or take an elevator.



It’s like 30 degrees out. Guess which one I did?

The hill is full of tunnels, dug during the war. One tunnel leads to an elevator and it was very cold.

I could have sat there for the whole hour in the natural air conditioning.



The elevator usually costs .80 Euro but today was free. There was no line and the elevator was quick – up through a vertical tunnel and you could see the carved walls as you ascended. The view from above is beautiful and worth the detour. It didn’t take long.



If you walked, that would be another story.

If I was in shorts, I would have walked down. Instead, I took the elevator and started a search for an ice cream. I found a nice shop with ice cream and gelato. I had to pay for the cup first then they gave me the chance to take a slice of any flavour. I wasn’t sure what all the flavours were but chocolate and vanilla were a given. I also tried nougat.

The ice cream was superb. Very rich and full of flavour. A small cup cost 4 Euro. About $6.



Exactly what a good ice cream should cost.

I met up with others from the tour and Casper had a bit of a job finding us all. I had to pay for the busted bouncy castles thanks to 315 clawed cats then I herded them back to the bus.

Good thing they have nine lives.

We continued on through some Switzerland like countryside with the gorgeous houses on the hillsides. 


Gasper went around with the optional list and I spoke to him about Montenegro. Turns out we will have close to a day and a half in the Old Town as it is and he promised me enough free time to see the War Photo display. So, I signed up for Montenegro, but he seems flexible if something changes.

He also tells us that Dubrovnik is separated from the rest of Croatia by a short section of Bosnia (its access to the sea) and that we would be crossing the small section on the way to and from Dubrovnik, but on the way back, we’ll actually stop. I’ll step inside the country for the first time in 18 years.

This time, I’ll get a fridge magnet.

We crossed into Slovenia through the empty border crossing and went through the longest tunnel in this part of Europe. Lake Bled was only about 20 minutes from there. All eyes were on the sky as the weather seemed to go from clear skies to threatening skies in the space of that tunnel.

Gasper gave us his Slovenia talk and language lesson. The words look an awful lot like Bosnian. And Croatian. And Serbian. Probably a lot like Montenegran too.

He said Slovenia has 2 million people and is one of the most forested nations in Europe by percentage (almost 60% is forested). The country declared independence from Yugoslavia in 1991 and Yugoslavia responded by attacking the border crossings - not wanting to lose the tax dollars or something to that effect. I think it had more to do with Germany being far too close to Slovenia (with which Slovenia has ties) and Belgrade being so far away. Serbian was more concerned about Croatia as it had a large Serb population. The Yugoslav incursion into Slovenia lasted only 10 days and they’ve been at peace ever since.

He said it’s the 9th smallest country in Europe, and he goes on to say nice things come in small packages.

Oh, did I mention he is Slovenian.

We pulled into the hotel which has greenery planted all along the balconies and it’s growing over the sides so much that the rooms below have vines hanging over their balcony. The whole wall is green.

It’s 4:30 which gave us a half hour to get ready for the evening optional. Gasper had said he’d only do the Postojna Caves if he had a minimum of 15 people. From the way he said it, he didn’t expect to get that many, but when he asked, he got more than 15.

315 times 4 paws, actually.

Some of us love caves and we stacked the deck.

Since enough people (and felines) wanted to see the caves, he compromised on the Bled Castle optional and arranged it for our arrival which gave us precious little free time, but with this optional done, we can do the other two tomorrow!

Love it when a plan comes together.

So, we scramble up to our rooms. Mine is small. One bed, a chair and CRT TV, but the TV has the Discovery Channel and National Geographic!!! There’s a safe (that I managed to screw up but they reset it for me), a hair dryer, shampoo stuff, mini bar. Didn’t notice an iron yet. There’s no bath. Just a shower.



And the internet is free in our rooms.

Sweet!

Despite Gasper telling us that he was trying to arrange Lake view rooms, we all face the town.

Don’t think I’ll be in the room long enough to notice.

I pass my luggage coming up as I head down to get the bus. Most of the tour is doing this optional and we joke that if this is an at-leisure tour then the lively would kill us. LOL

We drive a short distance to the Pletna boats (they’re like long gondolas). I’m in the front look back at the rower…and take a couple of discreet pictures. 








He can row my boat any day.

It takes about 20 minutes to cross the pristine Lake Bled to the only island on the lake. (I thought I heard Gaspar say it was the only island in Slovenia). We dock at the bottom and look up.

Way up.

99 steps.

Now, if there were a beer on each step, we’d have a song!



We all trudge up the steps to see the Church of St. Mary’s at the top. A bell is ringing and ringing and ringing. Turns out it’s a wishing bell and every tourist wants to take a try.

It must drive the locals crazy. LOL



I took a glance inside. I didn’t hear the history of the bell. Too noisy in the church. I went for a walk around the church to take pictures then walked halfway down the steps and sat there taking pics of the boats on the lake and Tito’s former summer place. 



Beautiful.

We took the boat back to shore and got back on the bus. By now, our stomachs are rumbling and if the cats have emptied the buffet by the time I get back, we’re gonna have a problem.

And they`ll be down to 8 lives.

First, we head to the Bled Castle which is perched on a cliff overlooking the lake. What a spot for a castle. We drive around the lake and see that the entire lake has a walking trail. What a way to preserve a spot. Apparently, no more building is permitted around the lake. At the end of the lake is a rowing area that was set up for a major competition. You can see the lines of buoys extending out into the lake.



By now, I’m so wiped, I’m not taking a lot of notes about the castle, but I knew the internet would be full. 

Here’s a link to the local site that explains the history of this amazing spot:


We drive up a very steep road and park below the castle. Then we see the ramp up…and up….and up to the castle.

We all want the 99 steps now.

This is not a spot for slippery shoes. Good footwear is essential.



The views from the castle are beautiful. Unfortunately, the sun just hid behind the bit of cloud surrounding the lake. Yup. There’s a huge blue area directly above us and a bank of cloud surrounds the blue to the horizon. 

We get a shower and I’m hoping a rainbow would show up over the town. Wouldn’t that be sweet?

But no go. 



We invade the small souvenir shop and I pick up the shot glass for my sister in law and find a cute t-shirt. It’s packed in a little lycra bag with the same design on it. I got it as much for the bag as for the t-shirt.

And fridge magnets galore. I covered everything we’re doing in Slovenia so that I can be sure I got them all and don’t have to look tomorrow.



We get a half hour to walk around and take pictures then head back to the bus. Good thing the showers let up or some of us would have been slip-sliding down the rocks to the bottom.

I sense another song.

We drive back to the hotel for 7:30 and Gasper tells us that the buffet is at 8 and to meet him in the reception area.

So, at 8 pm, he has 26 very very hungry people surrounding him and he gave us the details for tomorrow. It was that kind of situation that whenever he asked if someone had a question, you were quietly saying “no!”

Turns out about 24 of the 26 were thinking that.

He finally takes mercy on the drooling masses and lets us loose on the buffet. I didn’t even pick a seat. I just picked a plate.

Gasper said this hotel was well known for its food and I can believe it. It was delicious. Steak, turkey, potatoes, vegetables and the best meatballs I’ve ever had. We get a bottle of water between two people or you can order your own drink. The nice part about a buffet is that you can eat and run and most of us are done in an hour.

An early night and a late wake-up. A tour traveller’s best friend.

Turns out the green balconies are the cat’s best friend. They`re out swinging on the vines.

I locked my balcony door and went to bed.

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